Well we couldn´t come to Buenos Aires and not visit the Evita Museum, now could we, especially as it was on our list of recommendations. It was really interesting. You know she´s really famous and you kinda have preconceived ideas about who she was as a person and what she stood for, but only vaguely. The museum was fascinating, although probably very biased in Huw´s opinion – making her out to be an angel to the poor and disadvantaged. Maybe she was, maybe she wasn´t but it´s certainly made us curious about the history of Argentina, to know and understand her place in it all. If there was a museum to Princess Di in 20-30 years’ time created by her fan base, that´s sort of what we got. Not wrong, not inaccurate, just not a balanced perspective. Her clothes, lots of photo´s, some of her speeches, and plaques donating where her remains were held – they were in Italy for a long time before finally returning to BA and being laid to rest in the Recoleta Cemetery, which we visited the other day and are planning to return to with Fi today.
On the way to the cemetery we walk through Recoleta, it is the smart district in town, like walking around Knightsbridge in London. We were planning on visiting a gallery on the way, the Malba Gallery, the city´s equivalent of Tate Modern we believe. It was really hot and we were pretty tired, and well bad as it is, when we arrived Bernice didn´t feel like going in. Didn´t feel like ´dragging Huw and Fi around´. [B: Truth is I´m finding it a bit hard looking at art at the mo, feeling guilty still that I´m not producing any. That I´m not in a studio working. It´s great to get news from the UK from you guys off my course, exhibitions you´re in etc.. but it makes me feel I´m missing out. Ironic really as I know many of you would give your back teeth to swap places…And besides I´d prefer to find small artist run galleries, of work from artists at or around the same stage in their career as me…]
After our second visit to the cemetery – much busier with tourists today – we go for a coffee then wait what seems like an eternity for a bus back to Palermo. The time seems longer as Huw is really keen to find a bar to watch the 1st England Six Nations rugby game. In desperation we head for the Irish bar as we´re sure it will have it on and we catch he 2nd half. We know, how sad, but needs must, and to be fair it was very Argentinean for an Irish bar.
It´s Friday and as Huw was poorly last week and Fi is with us this week we need to sample a proper night out. Which goes along the lines of a siesta (missed out on this because of Rugby); Dinner around 10pm, we´re good and cook in – we buy more veg and add to the little sauce we have left and combine it with spaghetti; Out for midnight! – We go to a crazy, but cheap, bar and sit upstairs on the balcony watching the square. It´s empty when we arrive but within an hour it’s packed – the locals were still all finishing their dinner!!! After this we venture across the square to seek out a carajillo, not sure the Argentineans drink this but we manage to have some made anyway. Need the caffeine to stay the pace!!! It´s in the “Abierto Bar” that we meet Ildi and Andrew. They are an Aunty and nephew (small age gap, like Bernice and Kevin say) they are Aussies and are over for a huge family reunion. Their grandfather was a bit busy and there are lots of family far and wide. CNN apparently are filming it all. Nice! Anyway we had a top time with them, and finally got to bed around 0630. Purple Turtle goers eat your heart out!